Namibia Part 2 – Cross Country Adventures!
Desert Chic- Dune 7
Day 4 – Cheetah Conservation Fund and Etosha National Park
The first stop of the day was the Cheetah Conservation Fund in Otjiwarango. We got there in time to experience a cheetah run (before the sun got too hot and they would prefer to chill out than run). I’ll just have you know that there are no fences or barriers between us and the Cheetahs during the video below….
We were standing RIGHT there as they ran past. The cheetahs could easily come right up to sniff us if the were so inclined. Thankfully they were not!
The primary goal of the centre, as their name suggests, is conservation of cheetahs. One of the strategies they are currently employing is raising special puppies to defend livestock. These puppies (Anatolian Working Dogs) are raised with sheep or goats. They will then be sent to farms where they will then protect their “family” from cheetahs. Cheetahs tend to be non-confrontational and as such these big dogs intimidate them. They don’t attack the flocks, and the farmers don’t shoot them: they live to see another day. huzzah!
PGee and I were quite taken with the affable pups and spent a few minutes cuddling them.
Then this happened….
Ever had a goat try to eat your hair?
Yes, the goat in question is attempting to eat my hair. I was not amused.
We spent a few moments exploring their museum before lunch. After which of course we had to hit the road again right away… I think you may be picking up on a pattern here; our scheduling was verrrry tight most days. Impossibly so some of the time I must say.
Etosha National Park
We had a few moments to observe the wildlife at a water hole and then we were off again.
Elephants at Etosha!
Springbok
On the way up we finally spotted rhinos.
Finally a Rhino
We had to get going because it is not advisable to be driving around after dark, and we still had quite a way to go before we got to the lodge.
Onkoshi Lodge in the morning
I won’t hide that I was sorely disappointed that we were not able to do a game drive in Etosha. It was one of the things I was really looking forward to. Though Onkoshi was right on the pan lake and quite fab, I wish we had stayed at a lodge that wasn’t so far into the park; just so that we could have seen a bit more.
Day 5 – Opuwo and The Himba
In the morning we set out for Opuwo. After being greeted by dancing children in the town, we headed up to the Lodge at which we would be staying at.
Opuwo Country Lodge
View from my room at Opuwo Country Lodge
At the lodge we were able to have our first interactions with members of the Himba tribe. They are not dressed up here for show; this is how they dress on a daily basis.
A Himba Chief and his youngest wife
Shelly was to be dressed by two Himba women (both wives to the same man) before we headed back down into the town to an engagement at a stadium.
Shelly in her Himba garb
Later that afternoon we were told that we would be able to visit a Himba settlement; the home of the two ladies who had dressed Shelly earlier. In their homestead lived their husband, his brother, his unmarried sisters, his aunt and children thereof.
Once we got there, I honestly felt as if I had stepped into a National Geographic Magazine spread.
| PGee, Serika and I dancing with the women |
Felt like I was in a National Geographic Spread
The Himba are semi-nomadic and move according to seasons. Each homestead is fenced in with several individual homes, as well as a pen for the animals inside.There are those of the tribe that live mostly isolated from the rest of the world. They live 100s more Km inland from where we were. Those that live within accessible distance of towns such as Opuwo, will make trips ever so often to do shopping etc. I observed that some of these ladies had cell phones.
The leader’s eldest daughter told me that two of her siblings were being educated; one in Opuwo, and another in Windhoek. So it seems, that in this village at least, the youngsters are given a choice regarding living the traditional lifestyle or not. Another tidbit I’d picked up in general conversation during the trip is that most high schools in Namibia are boarding schools. The relatively small population is scattered across a vast space, and towns (as you may have picked up) are very far away from each other.
Snack Time. Grab and Go!
Head of the homestead outside his dwelling
Gorgeous Sunset
Day 6- Swakopmund
On the next day we would travel to Namibia’s Skeleton Coast with our destination being Swakopmund. This was a loooong day. We spent about 9 hours driving. I kid you not. As we approached the coast, I noticed a few things: 1) That were were entering what seemed to be true desert, 2) that the temperature took a significant dip and 3) that it was becoming overcast and a little foggy.
The air brought by the cold current (the Benguela) that runs along the coast, meets with the hot air from the (Namib) desert climate and you have some interesting weather and landscapes going on. This phenomenon is unique and I believe only occurs in one other place in the world, Chile. The cold currents are the site of a lot of upwelling whereby nutrients are brought up from deeper waters. This supports fisheries and in turn associated wildlife. Several seal colonies live along the coast; unfortunately we didn’t spot any ourselves. Ok I’ll stop now with the lecturing now :p. I don’t think any of us were quite prepared for how cold it got.
Swakopmund was interesting. You could definitely see the European influence( Namibia was formerly a German, then a South African colony) in the layout and architecture. I was to learn that most Swakopmund residents are of European descent or expats.
What Happens when you drive through the desert…
I debated whether to send my mom that pic. Her greatest nemesis at home is dust ( we have sinus issues) and I feared she would have a conniption fit. I assured her I would wipe the bag down properly before I opened it ( that didn’t happen- I only did some superficial cleaning. It really made no sense to do more at that point since we had more traipsing through the desert to do- sorry mommy :p )
PGee and I were able to nip into the spa for a quick sauna session and hot tub dip before they closed- just perfect after the day’s travel.
Sauna
Day 7- Walvis Bay and Dune 7
The next morning we headed further down the coast to Walvis Bay. Again it was quite cold ( think in the 18- 21ºC range). I felt sorry for PGee in her very cute, but woefully inadequate for the weather) romper. After the engagement at the stadium we had lunch and then on to Dune 7!
Dune 7 is 2nd highest sand dune in the world and we all made it to the top!
Desert Chic- Dune 7
After frolicking at the top for a bit, it was time to head back to Windhoek. As we pulled up to the hotel that evening I was dreaming of a nice leisurely shower. We were then, and only then, informed that we had a dinner to attend that evening at the National Musuem and the we had 1/2 hour to be ready! Whhhhaaaattt??!! That is not quite what one wishes to hear having travelled through the desert and covered with sand. Not to mention that was one more formal outfit that we would not have taken into account while packing! Somehow we made it work.
Day 8 – The end draws nigh
Day 8 was our day of departure, but we still had more to do. We visited Heroes’ Acre (which is similar in concept to our own Heroes’ Park) where Shelly laid a wreath.
This whole time we had not had any opportunity to buy souvenirs or anything really! After a bit of begging we got to skip the sit-down lunch we were supposed to have and got to have a few minutes in a craft village. Finally what we were looking for.
Then it was off to the airport. We only spent a week but it felt like at least two with all the things that we were able to do and see.
Sincere thanks to the government of Namibia for making this trip happen and to Shelly for inviting us to come along. It was truly a one of a kind experience; an awesome introduction to the Motherland.
